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FMTECH 新款攀岩鞋.
外型热情性感,加拿大橡胶F1赛车专用,超强磨擦力,此款鞋在澳大利亚得到极高评价!
附澳大利亚ADAM 对FMTECH 的评价摘自WWW.ROCKCLIMBING.COM (世界攀岩网): Last thursday I used them at the gym, and on the weekend I finally got the chance to use them outdoors and thought I would post my thoughts.
First of all, let me tell you my initial thoughts before receiving them: I was hopeful that the shoes would perform well, but due to the fact that this was a new venture for FM-Tech was half-expecting to find that they were blocky and uncomfortable and in need of refinement. Basically I was thinking that they may become shoes that I used on easier routes to save my current shoes.
My current pair of shoes are Scarpa Dominators which I purchased as soon as the new design was released specifically for their aggressive nature. I had found them painful but good on most types of rock, especially edging and overhanging routes.
My first impression upon receiving the shoes from Conrad was "whoops! these are smaller than my Dominators, they may be a little too painful to wear!"
My second impression after pulling them on however was "Wow! These things fit like a glove!"
There were no loose spots at all, the shoes conformed perfectly to my feet. The heels had no bag at all, and my toes, while being hammered (which I like), did not have any hot-spots.
My first desire was to get out and climb in them, but, unfortunately, Adelaide (my town) was experiencing record-breaking rainfall, and I just couldn't get to the gym *sigh* I had to be satisfied with standing on the skirtings around the house... and then dodging abuse from my wife.
Finally last thursday I managed to get to the gym where I showed off the shoes. Everyone was impressed by the look, but as you would expect in our world of only being sure about established brand-names, there was still the "yeah, they look ok, but how will they perform?"
Well, pulling onto my first problem I was surprised at how sticky the rubber was; My Dominators have been resoled with Stealth C4, so my expectations were along the lines of how close would the rubber be in performance to the C4. Instead I found myself wondering about how to get my hands on this rubber for resoling!
The shoes edged well on small holds which, as far as my gym is concerned, is about the limit of how shoes are tested.
My appetite whetted, I had to try these out on rock!
Managing to find two hours in my busy weekend I talked a friend into coming out to a sport climbing crag so that I could give them a go on the real stuff.
What can I say? I tried the shoes on a slab; they frictioned amazingly!
I tried them on an overhung route; they held well and allowed me to use foot tension and toes.
I tried them on an overlap which required a high-step onto a blank featureless face, my nemesis! (think the high-step that you see on Dosage 2 in the Southern Illinois dose when David Chancellor is on Praying Mantle) It stuck like glue! To compare, Tom was wearing shoes worn only three times since being resoled with C4 and he had problems staying on.
I tried them on a blank edgy route; Once again, they just stayed there!
The shoes fit perfectly, the heel is great, there is no pain, no loose sections, and they just lock my foot in like a vice! My feet do not move in these shoes unless I want them to move. It is like wearing another skin than makes my feet more firm and stick to rock.
The result is that these shoes are precise; they do what climbing shoes are supposed to do, stick to rock, and they do it well without causing pain.
Now, I know it sounds like I am over-stating things here, but honestly, I am impressed with the FM-Tech shoes.
I think these shoes will become my hard-route shoes and my Dominators will be relegated to the easier routes in order to prevent wasting the FM-Techs.
Cheers
Adam
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